Car Key Replacement
Lost your only key? We can cut and program a new one on site — no tow, no dealership wait.
The Three Types of Car Keys
1. Basic Mechanical Key
Cars built before roughly 1995, plus a few outliers. No chip, no electronics. Cheapest and fastest to replace — we cut a fresh blade and you're done.
2. Transponder Key
Standard from the late 1990s through the early 2010s for most brands. Looks like a mechanical key with a black plastic head. Has a chip inside that the ignition reads. We cut the blade and program the chip on site.
3. Smart Key / Push-to-Start Fob
Modern proximity keys. Typically a plastic fob that lives in your pocket, no slot to insert. Programming usually involves both the fob's transmitter and the chip — slightly longer process, still done on site for most vehicles.
"All Keys Lost" — No Working Key Left
This is the situation that strands people the most. The good news: for most vehicles we don't need an existing key to make a new one. We can:
- Decode the door or ignition lock and cut a fresh key from the original code.
- Or, for many manufacturers, request the original key code from the VIN with proof of ownership.
- Then program the chip / fob to your vehicle's immobilizer system.
The whole process usually takes 30 minutes to an hour and a half depending on the vehicle. We do it in your driveway — no tow, no waiting weeks for a dealer appointment.
Spare Keys
If you still have one working key, making a spare is much cheaper than starting from zero. If you only have one key, we strongly recommend getting a backup made at your convenience instead of waiting for the day you lose it.
What We Need
- Year, make, and model of the vehicle.
- Title or registration plus your photo ID. We don't make keys for cars we can't verify.
- Access to the vehicle's location (we come to you).
What We Don't Do
A small number of newer high-security European models (some recent Audi, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, and Land Rover variants) are still locked down to the dealer network. If yours is one of them we'll tell you up front instead of trying and failing.
Makes & Models We Work On
We cover virtually every major manufacturer sold in the United States. Below is a real-world breakdown of what we handle most often around Savannah — what's straightforward, what takes longer, and what's worth knowing before you call. If your vehicle isn't listed, call anyway — odds are very good we can help.
Ford — Including Explorer, F-150, Escape, Mustang, Edge, Fusion
Ford is one of the most common calls we get. We cut and program transponder keys for older Crown Vics, Focus, and Taurus models, and handle PATS-equipped vehicles from the late 90s onward. The Ford Explorer, F-150, and Escape proximity fobs (2011 and newer) are programmed on site — including all-keys-lost. Mustang flip keys and the newer Edge / Fusion smart fobs are routine work for us. We also do remote programming for factory keyless entry remotes when the original is lost or the battery contacts have corroded.
Chevrolet, GMC, Cadillac, Buick (GM)
GM vehicles split into two camps for keys: older PK3/VATS systems (think 2000s Silverado, Tahoe, Impala, Malibu) where we cut and program a transponder on site, and newer push-to-start vehicles (Silverado 1500, Tahoe, Suburban, Equinox, Traverse, Sierra, Yukon, Escalade, Encore, Enclave) that use proximity fobs. We program both. GM ignition lock cylinders are also a frequent repair for us — older Impalas and Malibus in particular are notorious for ignition failure where the key won't turn; we replace the cylinder and rekey it to your existing key.
Honda — Civic, Accord, CR-V, Pilot, Odyssey, HR-V, Passport, Ridgeline
Honda is a daily call. The Civic and Accord are some of the easiest cars to replace keys for, all the way through current model years. CR-V, Pilot, Odyssey, and HR-V smart keys are programmed on site including all-keys-lost. We also handle a common Honda issue: ignition cylinder repair. Older Civics and Accords (roughly 2003–2011) often develop a worn ignition where the key sticks or won't turn at all — we can rebuild or replace the cylinder without a tow.
Toyota — Camry, Corolla, RAV4, Tacoma, Tundra, Highlander, 4Runner, Prius, Sienna
Toyota covers a wide range. Older Camrys and Corollas with the basic transponder are quick same-day replacements. Newer push-to-start RAV4, Tacoma, Tundra, Highlander, 4Runner, and Sienna fobs are programmed on site — we have the equipment for current generation Toyota smart keys including all-keys-lost. The Prius "smart key" with the dash slot is also routine work.
Lexus — ES, RX, GX, NX, IS, LS, LX
Lexus uses Toyota's underlying immobilizer system but with extra security layers on the smart-key models. We handle ES, RX, GX, and NX smart keys including the all-keys-lost scenario. We also offer Lexus reflash service for the ECU on certain model years where the immobilizer needs to re-learn after a module replacement or a failed dealer programming attempt. If you've already been told "you need to tow it to the dealer," call us first — we can often do it on site.
Nissan, Infiniti — Altima, Sentra, Rogue, Pathfinder, Frontier, Murano, Maxima, Q50, QX60
Nissan Intelligent Keys (the I-Key push-to-start fob) on Altima, Rogue, Pathfinder, Murano, and Maxima are programmed on site. Older Sentra and Frontier transponder keys are quick, inexpensive replacements. Infiniti Q50, QX60, and QX80 smart fobs are routine. Note: a handful of very recent Nissan models use a sealed BCM that can require additional steps — we'll know when you give us the year and VIN.
Hyundai & Kia — Elantra, Sonata, Tucson, Santa Fe, Forte, Optima, Sportage, Sorento, Telluride
Hyundai and Kia have changed their key systems several times over the last decade. We handle older transponder Elantras and Sonatas, mid-2010s flip keys, and the newer smart proximity fobs on Tucson, Santa Fe, Sportage, Sorento, and Telluride. The 2015+ Sonata and Optima smart keys are programmed on site. Some 2022+ models with the new Hyundai/Kia security update have longer programming sessions but are still doable in your driveway.
Jeep, Dodge, Chrysler, Ram (Stellantis / FCA)
Wrangler, Grand Cherokee, Cherokee, Compass, Renegade, Charger, Challenger, Durango, Pacifica, 300, and Ram 1500 / 2500 / 3500 — we cover all of them. FCA vehicles use a SKIM/SKREEM immobilizer that we program on site for both transponder keys and proximity fobs. The Wrangler and Grand Cherokee in particular are among our most common calls. We also handle Ram trucks with the rotary-knob shifter / push-to-start fob.
Subaru — Outback, Forester, Crosstrek, Impreza, Ascent, Legacy
Subaru transponder and smart keys are straightforward for us. Outback, Forester, Crosstrek, and Ascent push-to-start fobs are programmed on site, including all-keys-lost. Older Imprezas and Legacys with the basic transponder are same-visit replacements.
Volkswagen, Audi
VW Jetta, Passat, Golf, Tiguan, and Atlas keys are part of our regular workload. Audi A3, A4, A5, A6, Q3, Q5, and Q7 keys depend heavily on year — pre-2017 models are usually doable on site; some 2018+ Audis with the latest immobilizer require dealer-only programming for all-keys-lost (a spare made from an existing key is still fine). We'll be straight with you over the phone.
BMW, Mercedes-Benz
For BMW, we handle CAS3 / CAS3+ vehicles (roughly 2006–2014: 1, 3, 5, X1, X3, X5 series) for spare keys and most all-keys-lost situations. FEM/BDC and newer (2015+) varies by exact model — call with the VIN. Mercedes-Benz: pre-2015 models with the older infrared key are doable; newer FBS4 systems on E, S, GLE, GLC, and Sprinter often require dealer involvement for all-keys-lost. We will not waste your time or money guessing — we'll tell you over the phone whether it's a job for us or for the dealer.
Mazda, Mitsubishi, Acura
Mazda 3, Mazda 6, CX-5, CX-9, and CX-30 smart keys are routine. Older Mazdas with the basic transponder are quick. Mitsubishi Outlander, Eclipse Cross, and Mirage are covered. Acura MDX, RDX, TLX, and ILX use Honda's underlying system — same-day work for us in most cases.
Volvo, Land Rover, Jaguar, Mini, Fiat
Older Volvos (S60, XC60, XC90 pre-2015) we handle directly. Newer Volvos and most Land Rover / Range Rover / Jaguar models from roughly 2016 forward use a heavily encrypted system that's still locked to the dealer for all-keys-lost. Spares from an existing key are usually fine. Mini Cooper and Fiat 500 follow their parent companies' systems (BMW and Stellantis respectively) — same rules apply.
Trucks, Vans & Fleet
We work on commercial fleet vehicles too: Ford Transit and E-Series, Chevy Express, GMC Savana, Ram ProMaster, Nissan NV, and Mercedes Sprinter (year-dependent). For larger pickups — F-250 / F-350, Silverado 2500/3500, Ram 2500/3500, Sierra HD — the key process is the same as their light-duty counterparts.
Remote & Fob Programming Without Cutting a New Key
If you already have a working key but lost or broke a remote / fob, we can usually program a replacement on site without re-cutting anything. This applies to most factory remotes (Ford, GM, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Hyundai/Kia, FCA, Subaru). Bring or describe the FCC ID printed on the back of any remaining remote and we can match it.
Ignition Repairs & Lock Cylinder Service
Sometimes the problem isn't the key — it's the ignition. We see this constantly on:
- Honda Civic / Accord (2003–2011) — worn wafers, key won't turn or sticks at "On."
- Chevy Impala / Malibu / Cobalt (mid-2000s) — well-known ignition lock failures.
- Ford F-150 / Explorer / Expedition — failed ignition actuators and PATS faults.
- Chrysler 300 / Dodge Charger — ignition lock cylinder wear, key stuck in run.
- Toyota Camry / Corolla (1998–2007) — older transponder ignition wear.
We rebuild or replace the cylinder, rekey it to your existing key when possible, and get you back on the road without a tow.
ECU / Module Reflash & Immobilizer Re-Learn
On certain Lexus, Toyota, Hyundai, Kia, and FCA vehicles, replacing a key is only half the job — the immobilizer module sometimes needs to be re-learned or reflashed so it accepts the new key. We carry the equipment for this on most supported platforms. If a previous shop or DIY attempt left your car in "secured" mode (won't crank, security light flashing), call us — we may be able to recover it without a dealer trip.