Rekey or Replace? A Plain Guide

What's Inside a Lock

Almost every residential lock in the US is a "pin tumbler" lock. Inside the cylinder there are five or six little spring-loaded pins of different lengths. The cuts on a key push each pin to exactly the right height — when they all line up at the "shear line," the cylinder turns.

If even one pin is wrong height, nothing happens. That's the security.

What "Rekey" Means

A rekey swaps the pins inside the cylinder for a different combination. We pop the cylinder out, take the pins out, put new pins in (sized to match a new key), put it back together, hand you the new key. Old keys no longer work because their cuts no longer line up.

The lock itself — the body, the deadbolt, the strike plate, all the visible hardware on your door — stays exactly the same.

What "Replace" Means

A full replacement means removing the entire lock and putting a new one in its place. New cylinder, new bolt, new everything. You'd do this when:

• The lock is sticking, slow, or won't turn smoothly even after cleaning.
• The bolt doesn't extend or retract fully.
• The lock is the wrong size for the door (common after door replacement).
• The hardware is visibly worn, rusted, or cosmetically damaged.
• It's a low-grade builder lock and you want real security.
• You're upgrading to a smart lock or restricted-keyway lock.

When to Rekey

Rekey makes sense when the lock works fine but you want different keys controlling it. The classic situations:

• You moved in. Standard practice. Don't trust who has copies.
• You lost a key. Especially a labeled or trackable one.
• A roommate or tenant moved out. Fast and cheap compared to replacement.
• You want all your doors on one key. Front, back, garage, side — all rekeyed to a single new key.
• You want a master key system. Each lock keyed to its own key, plus all to one master.

When to Replace

• The lock physically doesn't work right. Sticky, gritty, slow, won't fully latch.
• It's a builder grade lock. The cheap ones in new construction are technically functional but easy to bypass. If your home only has them, upgrading is worth it.
• You want a smart lock. Can't rekey your way into Bluetooth.
• You want restricted keyways. Locks where keys can only be cut by authorized dealers — useful if you've had key control problems.
• It's old and corroded. Common on Tybee, Wilmington Island, and other coastal homes. Salt is brutal on cheap zinc cylinders.

How to Tell if Your Lock is Healthy

Before calling, do this 30-second check at your front door:

1. With the door open (no friction from the strike plate), turn the deadbolt with the thumbturn. It should move smoothly — no scraping, no resistance.
2. Insert your key. It should slide in without forcing.
3. Turn the key. It should turn with light, even pressure.
4. Pull the key out. It should come out cleanly.

If all four feel smooth: lock is healthy → rekey if you want new keys.
If anything feels gritty, sticky, or wrong: replacement is probably worth it.

Cost Difference

Rough rule: rekey is about 30–60% the cost of replacing the same lock with comparable hardware. The exact numbers depend on your specific locks, how many you have, and what hardware you'd choose for replacement. We give you a clear price range on the phone before driving out.

What We Recommend Most Often

For new homeowners with healthy locks: rekey everything. Quick, cheap, immediate peace of mind.

For homes with builder-grade hardware on the front door: replace the front and back deadbolts with a Grade 1 or Grade 2 lock from Schlage or similar, rekey the rest.

For coastal homes with corroded hardware: replace the worst exterior locks with marine-rated hardware, rekey the rest.

For people who can't decide: let us look at it. No pressure, no upsell. We'd rather have a happy neighbor for ten years than one oversold rekey today.

Read more: Locked Out of Your Car in Savannah? Do This First.